Sunday in Sete

I’ve written about Sète before but each time there is something different to see. It’s a working port with a good range of cafes along the canals – and also a long beach on one side which stretches as far as Agde. And of course there is Musée Paul Valéry, run by the lady who used to run the art gallery in Lodève (why did they let her go?)
On a breezy Easter Sunday we drove there with our friends for the annual Escale a Sete We parked by the railway station and after a rather chilly wait got on the free boat which took us along the canal to the main quays. We joined the crowds wandering along looking at the boats.

We saw several groups of musicians, even some bagpipes (oh no, thought we had left them behind in Aberdeen)

It was soon time for lunch at l’Amiral, where we had the 3 course 15 euro menu. We all chose soupe de poisson and moules farcies and were not disappointed. It was lucky we had booked (for 12.00) as by 12.10 people were being turned away “Vous avez réservé? C’est complet.” She should have had a recording.

After our lunch we wandered around the quays, and met some Russian sailors (average age 17). We had seen them earlier in the souvenir shops, looking for presents to take home. They couldn’t speak French so were pleased to talk to us in English. They said they would like to come back next year, but we weren’t quite sure whether that would be an official visit.

Georges Brassens at Sete

As there was nothing much to do – it was too wet to garden – last week it was time for my long planned visit to the Espace Georges Brassens at Sète. Brassens was born and grew up in Sète but later moved to Paris. One of the many songs he wrote is about being buried in Sète which of course he is.
I found the Museum rather dated and the display not terribly informative. It depended on a commentary by Brassens himself which you listened to on headphones as you went round. That was probably considered innovative 10 years ago, before youtube and all the rest. His grave is in the cemetery opposite the museum (se the photo above). It was unassuming and not easy to find; there were several people looking for it. The graves were covered with chrysanthemums as this was just after All Saints’ Day when the French traditionally visit their family graves.
There is another Cemetery in Sete, also overlooking the sea but from a different angle, where Paul Valéry the poet is buried. The Musée Paul Valery is next on my list for a visit.
Here’s a bit more about Brassens on Wikipedia
– and here’s the man himself.